Just a few very important names in the history of distilling. The next time you take a shot of tequila, sip a fine single malt, or even order some kind of Mudslide , you might wanna pour some out on the curb for them. Unlike wine and beer, which are historically connected to early advances like the cultivation of crops grapes and barley , spirits require a very specific second step after fermentation: distilling. See, fermentation can happen by accident—wild yeast could easily stumble upon some rotted fruit and ferment the sugars into alcohol.
But distilling requires very specific intentions, which is why we only got to distilling through alchemy —yes, that thing where scientists try to turn lead into gold. A kind of mystical precursor to modern chemical engineering, alchemy was preoccupied with understanding the nature of substances—unlocking their inner secrets as a means to understanding the universe, the elements of nature, and life itself. The fact that we got booze from it is just a solid bonus. A far cry from Grey Goose , but evidence of a knowledge of distilling that found its way to Ancient Greece and continued into the first century A.
The coincidence is suggestive. But proof is elusive. Patrick McGovern acknowledges the uncertainty but still says the beer-before-bread theory is solid. The people there had only recently made the transition to farming. Alcoholic beverages, like agriculture, were invented independently many different times, likely on every continent save Antarctica. Over the millennia nearly every plant with some sugar or starch has been pressed into service for fermentation: agave and apples, birch tree sap and bananas, cocoa and cassavas, corn and cacti, molle berries, rice, sweet potatoes, peach palms, pineapples, pumpkins, persimmons, and wild grapes.
As if to prove that the desire for alcohol knows no bounds, the nomads of Central Asia make up for the lack of fruit and grain on their steppes by fermenting horse milk. The result, koumiss, is a tangy drink with the alcohol content of a weak beer.
People drank the stuff for the same reason primates ate fermented fruit: because it was good for them. That antimicrobial effect benefits the drinker. It explains why beer, wine, and other fermented beverages were, at least until the rise of modern sanitation, often healthier to drink than water. They produce all kinds of nutrients, including such B vitamins as folic acid, niacin, thiamine, and riboflavin.
Those nutrients would have been more present in ancient brews than in our modern filtered and pasteurized varieties. In the ancient Near East at least, beer was a sort of enriched liquid bread, providing calories, hydration, and essential vitamins. At Tall Bazi, a site in northern Syria, a German excavation revealed a clutch of about 70 houses overlooking the Euphrates River that were abandoned during a sudden fire almost 3, years ago.
In each house, usually close to the front door, the excavators found a huge, gallon clay jar sunk into the floor. Chemical analysis—by Zarnkow again—revealed traces of barley and thick crusts of oxalate in the jars. By B. Beer was such a necessity in Egypt that royals were buried with miniature breweries to slake their thirst in the afterlife. In ancient Babylon beer was so important that sources from B. Adelheid Otto, an archaeologist at Ludwig-Maximilians University in Munich who co-directs excavations at Tall Bazi, thinks the nutrients that fermenting added to early grain made Mesopotamian civilization viable, providing basic vitamins missing from what was otherwise a depressingly bad diet.
And then, of course, there is the other side of the story. There are the lengths to which people throughout history have gone to go on a bender. Before the Celtic ancestors of the French learned to produce wine themselves, they imported it from the Greeks, Etruscans, and Romans.
In a wheat field at the end of a winding mountain road in central France, at an archaeological site called Corent, I get a taste of this dependency. My guide is Matthieu Poux, a Franco-Swiss archaeologist with a crew cut, blue aviator shades that match his shirt, and a firm handshake.
At Corent, Poux leads some 50 French archaeologists and students who are uncovering the foundations of a major Celtic ceremonial center and regional capital. In the second and first centuries B. The town had a marketplace, a temple, taverns, a theater, and hundreds of houses. Around B. The evidence, in the shape of shattered clay wine jars, or amphorae, is so abundant that it crunches underfoot as Poux leads me across the site.
Archaeologists have uncovered at least 50 tons of broken amphorae here; Poux estimates that tons more remain on the hilltop. Bending down, he plucks a palm-size chunk of fired clay flecked with black volcanic glass from the dirt and hands it to me. Roman vintners, whose elite Roman clients preferred white wines, tended vast plantations of red wine grapes for the Celtic market; traders moved the wine across the Mediterranean, in ships that carried up to 10, amphorae each, and then sent it north on small river barges.
By the time it reached Corent months later, its value had multiplied a hundredfold. One contemporary claimed the thirsty Celts would trade a slave for a single jar. Wine was the focus of elaborate rituals that cemented the status of the tribal leaders. Things often got rowdy. By paving their streets with the broken jars, Poux says, the rulers of Corent flaunted their wealth and power. By his calculations, the Celts living here went through 50, to , wine jars over the course of a century, the equivalent of 28, bottles a year of expensive, imported Italian red.
Worldwide, people age 15 and over average about a drink a day—or more like two if you include only drinkers, because about half of us have never touched a drop. Millions of years ago, when food was harder to come by, the attraction to ethanol and the brain chemistry that lit up to reward the discovery of fermented fruit may have been a critical survival advantage for our primate ancestors. Today those genetic and neurochemical traits may be at the root of compulsive drinking, says Robert Dudley, whose father was an alcoholic.
The ancient Greeks were a good example. A crucial part of their spiritual and intellectual life was the symposium fueled by wine—within limits. Mixing wine with water in a decorated vessel called a krater, Greek hosts served their exclusively male guests a first bowl for health, another for pleasure, and a third for sleep. The mixture spent the night sitting on a table next to his desk, covered by a paper plate.
When Zarnkow flicks on the lights, I can immediately see that the slop has come alive, thanks to yeast from the sourdough. Muddy sediment at the bottom of the pitcher resembles wet muesli. Every few seconds, a large bubble of carbon dioxide percolates to the top through a scummy layer of foam. A translucent gold liquid, resembling the wheat beer brewed in massive steel tanks at the brewery next door, rests in the middle. Specific aromatic herbs e. Both jiu and chang of proto-historic China were likely made by mold saccharification, a uniquely Chinese contribution to beverage-making in which an assemblage of mold species are used to break down the carbohydrates of rice and other grains into simple, fermentable sugars.
Yeast for fermentation of the simple sugars enters the process adventitiously, either brought in by insects or settling on to large and small cakes of the mold conglomerate qu from the rafters of old buildings. As many as special herbs, including wormwood, are used today to make qu, and some have been shown to increase the yeast activity by as much as seven-fold.
For Dr. McGovern, who began his role in the Chinese wine studies in , this discovery offers an exciting new chapter in our rapidly growing understanding of the importance of fermented beverages in human culture around the world.
In , he and colleagues Rudolph H. Michel and Virginia R. Badler first made headlines with the discovery of what was then the earliest known chemical evidence of wine, dating to ca. Biers and P. That finding was followed up by the earliest chemically confirmed barley beer in , inside another vessel from the same room at Godin Tepe that housed the wine jars. In , chemical testing confirmed resinated wine inside two jars excavated by a Penn archaeological team at the Neolithic site of Hajji Firuz Tepe, Iran, dating to ca.
McGovern also thanks the Institute of Archaeology in Beijing and Zhengzhou for logistical support and providing samples for analysis. Changsui Wang, chairperson of the Archaeometry program at the University of Science and Technology of China in Hefei Anhui Province was untiring in his enthusiasm for the project, and personally accompanied Dr. McGovern on travels to excavations and institutes, where collaborations and meetings with key scientists and archaeologists were arranged.
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